A Flophouse for Climbers

Last Friday, my cousin Steve arrived in Boulder to stay for about a week and do some climbing. The same day, Gus and Ryan decided to surprise me and show up as well with the intent of staying for a couple weeks and focussing on climbing. As a result, my small studio now has 5 dudes living in it (James has been here nearly 3 months now). With so many folks eager to explore Colorado's virtues, I've been very busy. In fact, today is my first off-day from climbing since they arrived. That's 4 days on. Climbing hard multiple days in a row is a really cool experience -- on each successive day you can feel your body breaking down. I like to think about Sharma climbing V13 on his 5th day on...amazing.

On Saturday morning, Ryan, Gus, Dan, and I went out to Clear Creek Canyon to do some sport climbing up there. I led a slabby 5.9 called 5th of July, hiked a little 5.10a on TR, and took a huge 20 foot whipper leading a 5.10a on the Primo Wall. Dan worked on a couple crazy-steep-and-hard 5.12 problems, and Ryan and Gus mostly worked on the same problems I did. All the pictures are here. These are my favorites:

The next day, Gus, Ryan, and I made a trip up to Flagstaff and did some bouldering, mostly in the Upper Great Ridge area where my ongoing projects are. Then, on Monday, I met up with John and Yvonne to do some top-roping up on Happy Hour Crag in Boulder Canyon. Yvonne was just in town for a few days and wanted to do some climbing, so I agreed to give a tour of a couple fun moderates in the Canyon. We did Grins (5.8 ) and The Big Split (5.9). I also did a fun variation on the Big Split involving some balancy face climbing which I'll call 5.10. Pictures: Finally, yesterday, Ryan, Gus, Steve, James, and I all hiked up to the Satellite Boulders at the base of the Second Flatiron. We mostly worked on a few fun V0-V1ish problems and spent some time trying to link a V5ish traverse. We didn't have a guide book for the area, so we mostly just climbed obvious lines as we found them. I took quite a few pictures. Due to the light conditions and our laser-like-quickness, some of them are a bit blurry: I fly back to Portland in just a few days. In the mean time, we have plans for several more days of hard climbing. Pictures and epic tales will follow.

Posted at Wed Jul 16 15:59:31 -0500 2008 by Caleb Phillips

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